Irish fusion food for St Patrick’s Day

 For generations, the words “vegetarian” and “Irish” “were an oxymoron as a diet of choice as distinct from grim necessity . Today in a country where food standards have become more ambitious but remain notoriously uneven, Denis Cotter from Cork does the revisionist thing, to graft new ideas upon tradition for the Guardian.  In a country that spent much of the last few hundred years in poverty, it’s a bit rich expecting us to have concocted a food culture that would …

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